Preview: Bauer TotalOne NXG Protective
By Kyle Stevenson, Pure Hockey Marketing
For 2013, Bauer will be launching their newest protective line, the Supreme TotalOne NXG line. The NXG will be the anatomical fit line from Bauer, fitting naturally, and close to the body. A big upgrade to the entire line is the across the board addition of PORON XRD Foam, one of the most advanced impact absorbing materials in hockey
Starting with the TotalOne NXG Shoulder Pads, there were many upgrades to this year’s model from the previous. Returning to the pad are things like the Free Flex chest, allowing maximum mobility, and the Thermo-Max+ Liner to keep the pad nice and light. Again it will have the removable abdominal pad, for more protection if you need it or less weight and more mobility if you choose.
The shoulder pad got its PORON XRD upgrade in the sternum area, for the some of the best heart protection you will find in any pad. The mid body of the pad was outfitted with Bauer’s Vent Armor foam, for great protection, while still being seriously light. The Vent Armor Foam was also added to the shoulder caps, with a really creative new design by Bauer, wrapping a layer onto the cap. The goal is to make the pad softer, and safer for both the player making the hit, and receiving it. The new cap softens impacts by 25% compared to the previous TotalOne model. The NXG also has an adjustable, free flex bicep guard, with a sleeve fit, for the most secure and custom fit.
The NXG Elbow Pads have received mostly material upgrades rather than design. Getting the PORON XRD treatment in the inside cup of the elbow, this adds impact protection and comfort, as the foam will contour to your elbow. The cap has a softer outermost cover. The bicep guard and the forearm slash guard are now both made of Vent Armor Foam for added protection and reduced weight. It features the same anchor strap system as last years pad.
The TotalOne NXG Shin Guard comes back again with the F-One Shell, which is a layer of High-Density Foam sandwiched between two layers of hard plastic. The knee donut has been updated with PORON XRD Foam form maximum protection and fit. The shin pads fit naturally and close to the body throughout the kneecap and the shin to be comfortable and low profile.
Hockey Stick Weigh-in Part 2
By Kyle Stevenson, Pure Hockey Marketing
It’s that time again, stick weigh-ins are here. We’ll cut right to the chase…
Once again, these weights are all for the same (or closest comparable) blade pattern and same flex, for consistency.
1) Bauer Nexus 418 Grams
2) Bauer TotalOne NXG 424 g
3) Bauer Vapor APX LE 430 g
4) Reebok 20K 431 g
5) CCM RBZ 441 g
6) Easton RSII 443 g
7) Easton Mako II 450 g
8) Bauer Supreme One.8 465 g
The other request we had last time was what is the difference in weight between the same model stick. So we tested that out too with the Nexus and TotalOne NXG…
The Nexus weighed 3 times came in at 418g, 418g and 420g. The NXG came in at 421g, 422g, and 425g. So in the numbers seem to be very consistent.
Hockey Skate Fitting
Hockey Skate Sizing Guide
How do I determine a good skate fit?
The hockey forums online are loaded with it. Discussions all over locker rooms. Questions in our stores. As long as hockey shall survive as a sport (forever, we obviously hope), the issue of hockey skate fitting will be riding sidecar with it. What’s the best way to fit a skate? How do you know when you’re in the right skate or have the right fit? We thought we’d ask some of our experts here at Pure Hockey – a bunch of our store managers. Their responses are detailed, helpful and if we may say so ourselves, excellent. Dig in:
Jon Stone, Manager of Pure Hockey in Customer Service:
Skate fitting is an imperfect science. From the retail perspective, it can be the most challenging – but also the most rewarding – part of our day here at the hockey shop. Most customers have an idea about what type of skate they are looking for and it is our job to show them how – or if -that skate will work for them. Because all skates are different, it is important to try on many of them and be open minded to the actual size of the skate. Once you have a skate on your foot, it is important to kick your foot back into the heel pocket of the skate. You will get the true feel of the length of the skate by doing this and then lacing up the skate – this will give you a good idea of where your foot will be in the boot. Just sliding on the skate and standing up may make the skate feel too short, with your toes hitting the end cap. It is important to remember when lacing up your skates that it is not as important to pull the laces tight in the lower half of the boot or the top three eyelets. It is essential to pull the laces tight through the turn or curve of the middle eyelets. This is the area that will push your foot back in the skate and help settle and keep your heel back in the heel pocket.
Trust the material of skates these days to provide you with all the ankle support you will need. Over tightening of the top eyelets or wrapping the laces around your ankle will only inhibit your forward flex and shorten your stride. Try on numerous skates and remember – your friends skate or the pair that Patrick Kane wear may not be the best skate for you. High end (read: expensive) skates are build for performance and may be too stiff for kids or smaller players to use. Talk to your local Pure Hockey skate guy about how often you skate and what type of skates you are using now. There is the “right” skate out there for every player – take the time to find your fit.
Dan Torti, Pure Hockey in Berlin, MA
Many different thoughts go into a skate fitting. Does the person have a narrow foot, a wide foot, a flat foot, a high arch, thick ankles, narrow ankles? You need to check this out because different models and brands of skates fit differently – just like shoes. As much as a customer wants to, we avoid fitting them according to the look of the skate. We can’t stress that enough, it’s not how it looks its how the skate feels. Who cares what a skate looks like if you’re not going to be able to use it to its full potential or even wear it because you ache to much to be able to do anything in the skate.
Also, you need to take the size and weight of the individual into consideration too. Going with a lower to mid-end skate isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Younger kids don’t necessarily need high-end skates. A lot of times when you go to the high end skates they get stiffer – and when a skate is stiffer it becomes much harder for them to break it in. Chances are that by the time they break it in, it’ll be time to move on to their next pair of skates because they’ve out grown their current skates already.
How much are they skating? Someone who is skating everyday for travel teams or High School and/or at an elite level may also need to go with a different model skate than that of the individual that may be skating once a week at a house or Jr. Varsity level. Mid to high-end skates tend to be a little bit more durable. A high school varsity player will want to go with the higher-end skate. It’ll take the abuse, perform well, and give them good energy release because of the lack of breaking down.
Is the individual a finesse player looking to make tight turns and cuts or is the player a power forward looking to get as much potential energy out of their stride as possible? Do they want to have a tight fit around their ankle or a less restricting fit around their ankle. I want to fit the skate as close to the individual’s actual foot size as possible. This allows for better control over their skating stride. It is not uncommon to have a skate that is 2 – 2.5 sizes smaller than an individual shoe size. For someone who isn’t going to be growing any more, the perfect fit would be to have your toes slightly brushing the toe of the skate. For a youngster you can probably get them to this point – and give them a half size bigger at the most. This will allow them a little room to grow without the skate affecting their skating ability. A skate that is too big often times will give you blisters as a result of the sloppy fit. The reason for this is if your heel lifts or your foot is moving from side to side the friction from the movement will cause irritation which will turn into a blister. A lot of people feel that this happens because a skate is too small. This is not the case and heat molding the skate will not make the skate fit tighter. This process actually breaks down the glues and materials of a skate to break down some of the stiffness of the skate speeding up the break in process.
Basically a customer should buy a skate according to the player that they are not the player that they wish they are. Do NOT buy a skate according to look, or someone else’s opinion of the skate. Look to try on various models and compare the fits. Leave the skate on and walk around for a couple minutes. Usually aching or pains of the arch or mid foot don’t happen right away. Keep the skates on so that you know whether or not you will have any problems. Make sure the skate has a tight fit and that your ankle is locked into place, but still is comfortable.
Hockey Stick Glossary
1 Piece Hockey Stick – One piece sticks are complete with shaft and blade fused together and don’t have to be assembled. This single piece configuration is the most common for hockey sticks and it guarantees that the stick meets the manufactures specifications for a stick ready to go.
2 Piece Hockey Stick – The shaft and blades of two piece sticks come as separate units. This allows you to custom match a blade and shaft to your exact needs. Two piece sticks are also easier to re-blade because they don’t require cutting of the shaft like a one piece stick does.
Butt end – The top end of the hockey stick where you hold the stick (not the blade end).
Blade Heel – The heel of a hockey stick refers to the bottom of the stick at the back of the blade below where the blade and the shaft meet.
Blade Lie - The Lie of a blade describes the angle of the blade in reference to the shaft. A lie value of 5 corresponds to a 135° angle, and each additional lie value corresponds to a 2° smaller angle. With the bottom of the blade flat on the ice, a higher lie value causes the shaft to stand up straighter. Typical lie values range from 5 to 7; most sticks now are near 5.5. Players usually seek a lie that will put the blade flat on the ice while they are in their typical skating stance. A lower lie is best for skaters who lean forward closer to the ice or use a longer stick. Higher lies keep the puck closer to the body & are preferred by more upright skaters. Check out the article Hockey Stick Blade to learn how to tell if your lie is correct
Blade Pattern and Curve - Blade Patterns consist of the dimensions of right/left hand, curve type, curve depth, toe shape and face angle. Patterns are often named after NHL players for marketing purposes Blade Curve Type describes where the main part of the curve is located on the blade. Curve types are Heel, Mid and Toe curves.
Blade Curve Depth - is the amount of curve in the blade. A simple way to measure the curve depth is to place the stick on a flat surface with the inside of the curve of the blade laying flat on the surface. You can then measure from the surface to the highest point inside the curve profile.
Blade Face Angle - describes how much of the face (or front) of the blade you can see when looking down at the ice. Face angles are referred to as Open or Closed. The more open the blade is, (you can see more of the front of the blade when looking down) the easier it is to lift the puck. Slightly open or closed angles are better for stick handling, catching passes and using your backhand. Many feel that developing players should use a less open pattern to help develop both their shooting and stick handling abilities.
Blade Toe – The toe of a hockey stick refers to the end of the blade away from the shaft. Toes generally come in two shapes: round and square.
End Plugs – End plugs are shaft extensions that are glued into the butt end of a composite shaft and are used to increase the length of a hockey stick. Increasing your hockey stick length is useful if you can’t find a hockey stick long enough or if you cut your shaft down while replacing the blade. End plugs come in both wood and composite material and they usually come pre-glued with hot melt glue already on the end that gets inserted into the shaft. They come in junior and senior sizes and intermediate sticks use the senior size plugs. Also called butt ends but NOT butt plugs.
Flex – Hockey Stick Flex is a measure of how flexible a stick is when a force is applied to it. Generally you want the stiffest flex stick that you can flex completely to take full advantage of the stick recoil as it snaps the puck forward. Please see the Hockey Stick Flex: Product Better Shots with the Right Flex article for an in depth look at Flex. The most common measurements for stick flex are:
-- Youth = ~40 flex
-- Junior = ~50 flex
-- Mid or Intermediate flex = 60-75 flex
-- Regular flex = 85 flex
-- Stiff flex = 100 flex
-- Extra stiff = 110 flex
(see our choosing the right flex section for more information on flex)
Grip vs Clear shaft – Hockey Stick Shafts come either as “clear” which is no additional texture added to the shaft or “grip”. Grip coatings come in a variety of textures but their purpose is to provide additional texture to improve your grip on the shaft.
Kick point – The kick point is where the shaft flexes when enough pressure is applied to bend it.
Mid flex – Mid kick point, or mid/constant flex, sticks have a more traditional flex that allows the stick to be loaded from the bottom hand. This gives you a larger loading and potentially a higher velocity release. Wooden sticks have a constant flex profile that behaves in this manner.
Low kick points – Composite sticks are often engineered to have low kick points on the shaft for a quicker release. The loading of the stick happens sooner since there is less distance for the stick to bend before it recoils back and whips the puck forward. This lower kick point is often created with shafts that have tapered ends near the blade.
Left hand vs. right hand – Hockey sticks come in left hand and right hand configurations. The easiest way to remember the handedness of a hockey stick is that when you hold a stick, the hand that is placed lower on the shaft is the same as the handedness of the stick. For example, if you hold your hockey stick with your left hand on the butt end and your right hand down the shaft closer to the blade, then you are holding it right handed. If you are right handed, you shouldn’t automatically assume that you need a right handed stick. Your hockey stick handedness should be determined by which handedness feels most comfortable to you. Please check out the article Right handed vs Left Handed: How to hold a hockey stick to learn more about right vs left handed sticks.
Length of Hockey Sticks – Hockey Sticks come in different sizes and configurations to match to the size of the hockey player. The size of the shaft’s diameter, or girth, is also of different for each size configuration. The NHL rules limit the maximum length of a hockey stick to 63 inches. Please see the Hockey Stick Length article for an in depth look at Hockey Stick Length. Standard configurations and their lengths are:
-- Junior = 46-53 inches
-- Intermediate = 54 inches
-- Senior = 56-63 inches
Shaft – The Shaft of the hockey stick is the long length of the stick from the blade to the top of the stick. Composite shafts can be purchased separately to be matched to a blade of your choosing. In this case, the shaft is part of a 2 piece configuration.
Stick Wax – stick wax is a wax compound applied to the tape on the blade of a stick to 1) keep moisture out of the tape and blade, and 2) to help change the feel of the puck on the stick blade.
Tapered shafts – Manufactures are producing hockey sticks with tapered shafts at the blade end to move the kick point lower on the shaft. See the term “Kick Point” for a more detailed description of the advantages of moving the kick point. Easton has also come out with an elliptical taper on their S17 sticks.
Content provided by the fine folks at hockeystickexpert.com
Hockey Pants Sizing Guide | Pure Hockey
Hockey pants have arguably the biggest decision to be made as far as protective equipment goes. There are two pretty drastically different styles, pants and girdles. The choice between the two styles is completely personal preference. Pants are the more traditional style, with a bigger, more voluminous fit while girdles fit tighter to the body.
Most aspects of fitting both style are the same. You want to be sure that belt is sitting up on your waist, above your hips. This will ensure that you have optimal movement and that your kidneys and lower ribs will be properly protected.
If possible, you’ll want to try on your potential new pants with your shoulder pads and shin pads on. This will give you the most accurate feeling of how they will fit in a game. As with anything else, you want to be sure the pants do not interfere with your shoulder pads, but also that you do not have any protection gaps. You want to test the movement of the pants, take some strides, squat, jump, dance, whatever you need to do to be sure you have the freedom of movement you’ll need on the ice.
Deciding the proper length is the first place where there is a real difference between a pant and girdle. With a pant, when you stand upright the bottom of the pant should fall somewhere about a third to hallway down the knee cap of your shin guard. This slight overlap will ensure that you are fully covered when in stride. When your leg is bent, the pant is going to cover down to the top of your shin pad, keeping you protected.
With a girdle on the other hand, there is less movement in stride, since it is tighter to the leg. There isn’t enough room to overlap with the shin guard. For these reasons, the girdle will need to be fit slightly shorter. Without that extra play to fall over the shin guard, it becomes more important to be sure that the two pieces of gear are not interfering or displacing one another.
Some great options to check out...
Check out all our videos on our PureHockeyDotCom YouTube Channel
Shin Guard Sizing Guide | Pure Hockey
Shin guards are arguably the piece of protective gear that is most influenced by personal preference. Finding a size and model is weighted heavily on your preferences, playing style and how you wear the pads. Some players prefer to wear their shin pads over the tongue of their skates, while others prefer to have the tongues in front. The former allows players to comfortably wear a slightly longer pad.
Finding the correct model is just like anything else, your play style and needs influence the decision of what model is best for you. Generally speaking, many defenseman choose wider, bulkier pad, for more shot blocking surface and more protection. On the other hand, many forwards prefer a lower profile, tighter to the leg, lighter pad. These are simply tendencies and don’t imply that a defenseman should buy one pad and a forward should always buy another.
When trying on shin pads, it is a good idea to have your skates with you. As mentioned, its tough to tell what the proper length of pad is without the skate on. You want to see where the pad fits in comparison to your skate tongue. You want the pad to have a small gap if you wear it behind your skate tongue or if you put the skate tongue under the pad, you can usually go up an extra inch in size. Anything longer and your stride will be hindered. Each stride your foot will end up moving the pad up and out of place.
To get the correct size, you’ll want to measure your shin. With your foot flat on the ground, measure from your ankle up to the middle of your kneecap. This measurement will give you an approximation of your proper size. As mentioned above, if you wear your shin pads on top of the skate tongues, bump the size up an inch.
Once you have the correct size, there are a couple keys to ensure proper fit. The first is that you want to make sure your kneecap sits securely in the donut of the knee. The second thing is to make sure it doesn’t come too far down your leg. With your skate on, you want to lean forward, simulating the flex of your foot during a hockey stride and make sure that the pad does not move. You do not want your skate to displace the pad, it should always remain with your knee in the donut.
The Rest of the fitting is all personal preference and making decisions based on the properties of each individual model. Think about things like, how wide of a pad do you want/need? How close to or “deep” on your leg do you want the pad to sit? How much protection do you need for your level of play? How much are you comfortable spending? What is most similar to your current pair of shin pads (if you liked them obviously)?
Some options to check out...
Check out the video on our PureHockeyDotCom Youtube Channel
Shoulder Pad Sizing Guide | Pure Hockey
Moving up top with shoulder pads there are a few key things to look for. The first is you want to make sure you find a set of pads with protection appropriate to you level of play. A mite or a once a week men’s league player probably doesn’t need the top model with all the bells and whistles. On the flipside, players playing at a high level like select, juniors, high school or college might need some more protection than a bargain bin pad. So one major key is finding the correct level of protection for you and your game.
Another key is fit and mobility. You want to find the pad that doesn’t restrict you’re movement or does so as minimally as possible. When you try on a set, you want to make sure you can move around – jump, swing your arms, celly, make a shooting movement, dance – whatever you need to do to make sure you have adequate mobility. You just want to be sure that you have no major restrictions in movement. You also want to make sure that the pad doesn’t overlap your elbow pad too much. You don’t want the two to interfere with one another, but they should meet so there are not large protection gaps. The shoulder pads border the top of your pants in the same way, close but without interfering with one another.
As far as actual measurements go, the two important ones when fitting shoulder pads are the chest and height. Measuring the chest, you want to take a soft tape measure around the body just under the armpits. Combine that with the height of the player, and you can get a good sense of the size needed.
When you have the pads on there’s a few key things to look for. The first is obviously comfort and your ability to move around. Next you want to make sure that your collarbone area is protected well and covered by the pad. You want to make sure the strap around the mid section connect correctly. You want them to be snug. You shouldn’t have to stretch and pull hard on the straps to get them to connect. You also don’t want them to be too loose that they are not holding the pads against your body.
Some great options to check out...
Check out all our videos on our PureHockeyDotCom YouTube Page
How To Fit Hockey Elbow Pads
Moving down to elbow pads, elbow pads are hugely about comfort and mobility. If you can’t freely move your arms, you aren’t going to be doing much in a hockey game.
The measurements to worry about when finding elbow pads are a player’s height and the length from about mid-bicep to mid-forearm. The bicep to forearm measurement is giving you a general idea of the distance from the bottom of your shoulder pads’ bicep guard to the top cuff of your gloves. Something to keep in mind is that you should always use judgment as these size measurements only help to give you an idea of the likely best size and do not take into account differences in arm circumference, which will influence the fit of the pad.
Most elbow pads today on the market are hard caps, covered with a softer foam and then a layer of fabric. These offer great protection on falls, slashes and other gameplay hazards. As you look up and down the lines between higher end models and the ones below, the major differences will be in weight, comfort, and fit. Higher end pads are designed to be more protective, through more advanced and generally lighter foams. Most have more anatomic designs, allowing them to sit more comfortably and lower profiling on your arms for a less bulky feel. Many will also have improved strapping systems for a more secure fit.
Some companies do still produce a lower model that comes in a soft cap option. These soft pads offer more mobility, but significantly less protection. They are great for young players, looking for a great amount of movement as they learn the game and for adult players, playing in less physical hockey who are willing to sacrifice protection for some extra mobility.
With elbow pads, there’s pretty much nothing worse than falling and suddenly your elbow pad decides it wants to move 3 inches down your arm and you end up banging your elbow straight on the ice. Our advice when you’ve chosen one that you think you like, try to shake it off. See how easily it moves. You may be able to move it a little bit if you really shake your arm around, but it should be difficult and not move a lot.
Some great elbow pads to check out...
Check out the fitting video on our PureHockeyDotCom YouTube Channel
Pure Hockey Shoulder Pad Guide
Pure Hockey Helmet Guides
Hockey Glove Guidance
There are few pieces of equipment in the game of hockey which are more important or take more time to choose than hockey gloves. Each player tends to have a different preference - and also tend to be extremely picky.
In today’s game, there are two basic, broad categories of fit that most gloves will fall into. The first is the traditional four-roll style and the other would be the tighter fitting, natural or anatomical fit. The choice between these two styles is up to the player to try out and feel which is more comfortable.
The traditional four-roll style tends to have more volume on the inside of the gloves, giving a looser feel and more room for a player’s hands. The advantage is when moving their fingers, players will have less resistance. It also feels less noticeable that there is a glove on, as the glove is further from the hand and fingers, so it feels less restrictive. These types of gloves have a large range of motion, due to the extra space built in.
The of glove is built to fit tighter to a player’s hand, and feel a bit more snug. The goal for glove manufacturers designing of this type of glove is for it to become an extension of the player’s hand. These fit tight, with very little extra space in the glove. Tapered gloves are built more ergonomically and designed for a greater range of motion based on design, so they fit tight and protect without sacrificing mobility.
Once you have tried on some different styles and seen which you prefer, fitting the glove is pretty simple. Gloves run from Youth sizes (8”, 9”,10”), Junior sizes (11”, 12”) to Senior sizes (13”, 14”, 15”). The ideal fit, will be comfortable, and not too tight. An overly tight glove can feel like you have more control and some people see it as a positive, it also will feel easier to move and feel more broken in right off the shelf, since it is designed for a smaller and likely weaker hand. Going with a glove that’s too small will compromise your protection, and with growing players, force you to grow out of the gloves quickly.
You also don’t want to have the gloves be too big – after all, having them fall off wouldn’t be terribly productive for you on the ice! Having gloves that are too big can also affect your ability to hold, control, or pick up your stick. Although many parents of kids would prefer to save money and buy a size up (to avoid growing out of them) this can hurt the player’s performance and create gaps in protection.
For an ideal fit, a player will find a glove style they feel most comfortable with, and test the glove out. Be sure to pick up a stick and hold it!!!! Gloves aren’t much use if they aren’t comfortable with a stick in your hand. Make sure you feel in control of the glove.
To determine the right fit and for maximum comfort, generally your fingertips should be between ¼” and a ½” from the end of the gloves. This allows for your fingers to bend without hitting the ends of the glove, but not too far away to lose control of the fingers. Make sure you can pick up a stick off the floor; this is the easiest way to see how much control you have of the fingers. Most gloves today are almost game ready, so you should be able to pick it up with ease.
Pure Hockey Skate Guides
Goalie Equipment Guide
Pure Hockey Glove Guide
Pure Hockey Grand Opening Shopping Spree
5-MINUTE DREAM SHOPPING SPREE:
NO PURCHASE NECESSARY TO ENTER OR WIN. A PURCHASE WILL NOT IMPROVE CHANCES OF WINNING.
FIRST 100 PEOPLE IN THE STORE RECEIVE A $100 GIFT CARD:
No purchase necessary to receive gift card. First come, first served on Saturday, November 2, 2013. One gift card per family. Only 100 gift cards will be given out.
STICK & TAPE PROMOTION:
Between November 2, 2013 and November 9, 2013, anyone who spends $100 or more on a single hockey stick will receive 1 free roll of hockey tape. One stick and one roll of tape per stick. For example, if you spend $250 on a single stick, you will receive one free roll of tape, not two. However, if you purchase 2 sticks at $250 each, you will receive 2 free rolls of tape.
Skate Sharpening Information
Pure Hockey’s Guide To Understanding Skate Sharpening
by Tim Carter, Manager of Pure Hockey, Danvers, MA
Here at Pure Hockey, we place a lot of pride into getting you or your loved ones into the right hockey equipment. That doesn’t always mean the most expensive equipment, either - we're talking about the PROPER equipment.
An often overlooked aspect of shopping at Pure Hockey is our fastidious devotion to service and repair, particularly skate sharpening. Not many hockey retailers really take the time to explain the basics of skate sharpening and the nuances that come along with it. So we hope this overview gives you a better sense of what exactly happens when your skates get sharpened, what qualifications our employees must go through before they are allowed to touch skates - and most importantly, to give you a better answer when one of our service people asks you "how deep?"
In the end, we want you to be as educated as possible in all things hockey and we hope this helps!
Skate Sharpening – What Is Happening Here?
- A skate is sharpened by grinding (or cutting) a concave semi – circle into each skate blade. This semi – circle is called the “hollow.” The hollow creates your edges both inside and out. The “hollow” is created by a diamond tipped dresser on our skate sharpening machine. The hollow can be created in a wide variety of depths anywhere from 2” to ¼”. Each depth will have a different feel when you are on the ice. Our most common hollows are: Goalies: 1 ½” (shallower), Figure Skaters: 1” and Players: ½ (deeper).”
The smaller the number, the deeper the hollow will be; the larger the number, the shallower the hollow will be.
A deeper hollow will give you more “grip” on the ice, thus your skate blade will “feel” sharper. Advantages: Edges will “bite” more in turns, giving more control to hold the edge(s). Disadvantages: Could cause you to lose speed due to the fact the blade is digging into the ice surface more.
A shallower hollow will still have “grip” - but less than that of a deeper hollow. Thus having the feeling of not being as sharp. Advantages: a smoother gliding feeling due to less drag. Easier stops and starts. Disadvantages: Less “bite” in turns. Edges may feel like they are sliding out from under you.
Choosing a hollow is going to depend mostly on your personal preference.
Some other factors to consider when choosing a hollow is the weather at the current time of year. Why does the weather outside have anything to do with skate sharpening, you ask? Well, skaters should sharpen their skates based on ice conditions, so keep in mind the softer the ice surface, the deeper your hollow will feel and vice versa.
How often you sharpen your skates is also going to be a matter of personal preference. Some players will sharpen their skates every time they skate. Check your skates for any nicks, stripped or “rolled” edges after you skate. If there are any you may want to get your skates sharpened if that is the case.
Pure Hockey Requirements for employee Skate Sharpening:
- Employees must be 18 years of age to operate sharpening machine(s).
- All employees must be trained by an experienced Pure Hockey store manager only.
- The store manager must sign off on the following for each individual sharpener: a) finish and cross grind wheel dressing (including various depths of hollow) and b) flat-bottom and traditional sharpening (player, goalie, and figure).
- The employee is required a minimum of two weeks practice before they can be cleared to sharpen a customer's skates.
- Employees accuracy of sharpening is documented on a performance evaluation. An employee must maintain a threshold of level to 1 line off of the skate edges (on a level measuring device used for training).
- All sharpeners must be re-certified every 6 months by district managers and store managers.
- Select employees are taught how to maintain our machines to keep them running at optimum performance.
We hope this helps - we'll have more for you soon on this topic! In the meantime, here's a video showing you some of the in-and-outs of skate sharpening from one of our most senior employees, who's been sharpening skates for over a decade now:
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